THE PATTERN PIECES
The corset basically consists of 4 triangles at the bust (2 either side of the centre-front.) It has 2 hip-triangles (gussets.) After cutting out all the pieces three times (one top, one callico one lining) I made up the gussets by marking and turning the edges inside, trimming the callico by the amount of the turning so its smaller than the other two, then tacking this down, pressing, then sewing it to the slits cut out of the fabric, however after trying to sew the gusset on top of the outer shell it works better on the inside.it You then have the problem of the point which means you have to cut a v-shape out of the outer material to get a neat turning. I marked the positions with a blue,washable fabric pen. When sure it was correct I sewed the seam neatly in place.
BUSK
The 1800s busk would be wood and is 14in long and about the width of a ruler (not easy to bend forward.) The front seam has to fit the busk so this seam needs to be as wide as the busk plus the turning. All the seams are hand sewn from the outside. On the first attempt I tried to sew a box pleat to insert the busk as I had allowed enough material at the centre front but had problems getting it symetrical. In the end I had to make a strip of material and sew it on the outside to cover the centre seam which I don't think is strictly accurate still it did the job.
HAND CORDING
I used for the cord sizal garden string but cotton packing string also works.
The cording needs to be done before the corset pieces are sewn together or you will have problems with the side-seams. I tried these two methods:
A Sew the top fabric to the canvas
B Sew all the 3 pieces together at the same time.
If you do a running stitch with method a. you can then sew the 3rd layer on between the original running stitches.
I also tried sewing all the vertical seams of the corset together first and then adding the cording and then sewing them this didnt work well as the cords come to
the edge of each piece.
ADDING THE CORDS
Before sewing anything together work each piece separately. Draw the lines where the cording needs to be placed by transfering from the paper pattern. Mark the lines with a washable pen or tacking stitch. Secure the cord to the canvas by overstitching the cord to the fabric. Now pin the top fabric in place and tack the outside edges and with a few pins and a bit of practice you will be able to sew each side of the cord without it moving. Go back through the gaps of the running stitch to get a back-stitch.
CORSET EYELETS HAND-SEWN
You will need 5 metres of lacing for a long-corset as this saves time undoing a lot of lacing to get the stays on. You will need 2 sizes of knitting needles, a sharp pair of small nail scissors.
Sew two row of stitching one at the centre-back and add a cord and one next to it with another cord the other side. Make another line of stitching and a cord to go the other side of the lacing holes.
Mark the position of the holes.
Poke a small hole with the scissors.
Push through first the smallest needle, then the larger.
Trim off the warp and weft of the fabric by a few of threads.
Use a strong thick linen thread and sew around the hole. Open the hole up if necessary with the kbitting needle, pull the thread slightly as you sew.
NB over-sewing was used in this period instead of a button-hole stitch and I found it strong enough to do the job.
