Patterns Of Fashion 1660-1860
I have recently been given a Janet Arnold book for my birthday. It has loads of good patterns in it on graphs for 1600s to 1800's. I think the descriptions of the construction of the items, how it is made up and lined, gathered, fastened etc are very comprehensive as well as a good discription of the fabrics used. There are also quotes from contemporary sources which give details of how to cut and sew the garments. I havn't yet tried out any of the garments having just got it but I certainly think its possible to make them up. It gives contemporary sources on how to take measurements and some references to widths of materials used.
Unfortunately there are no photos only sketches of the items in the book although it does give sketches of embroidery and other embeliIshments.
I think that considering it is not a very expensive book, £12 it is a very good reference for costume makers, fashion students etc. I didn't find it too complicated or dull.
In order to do historical sewing I have to do some extensive research. Before the 1700s there are - to my knowledge in costume musueums no actual existing examples of pre 1700 clothes surviving, although items such as shoes and jewelery do exist in the Manchester Museum. References for this time have to be taken from paintings, etchings and tapestries of the time.
After the mid 1700s some clothing can be seen in costume museums, but it is better to see it personally as even books like the Kyoto costume museum do not show the full, all round view. The pictures showing the detail in the material, embroidery and trimmings and even the weave is visable but you cannot see both front and back views in this books.
In Museums evoren when you do see the back and front with a close up of detail you can't always make out how it is fastened. In the 1700s you can tell that they used laces or tabs through which laces are threaded and ties at the shoulder. You can see that the bottom of the corsets finished in a scolloped edge this being because they wore a pannier which was drawn in at the waist and made the dress stick out at
CORSETS AND CRINOLINES - Norah Waugh
This is the definative guide to undergarments starting with the farthingale in the
15thC and working through the early 16thC - the whaleboned body with a workable
pattern. It also includes extant letters with references to types of clothing,
materials used and cost then to purchase. It also has attitudes to women wearing
these items and there experience of wearing it including the order to put them on.
There is a diagram for making a hoop petticoat There are pictures, magazines and comical caracatures of undergarments on and off the wearer. From here it takes you to the crinoline era and the early 1900's. There are also some good instructions
taken from cutting and drafting references of the time.
KYOTO COSTUME MUSEUM
This is a beautifully ihellusrated book. It contains wonderful full colour photo
of costumes, there are also discriptions of the materials used and close-ups
of the exquisite needlework. The book comes in two vssolumes covering 1600's to date of publication, incuding some items from Vivian Westwood. An essential reference for for costumers and enthusiasts. See also the Kyoto Costume Institute's
website.
