1770s red corset

finally managed to get all 8 pieces together. Have to allow 1 inch each join to get an original 1700s pattern to fit so as my waist is 29 in that means the original must be 21 inches! dont think Ive been that size since I was 10 yrs. The first attempt had to be scrapped altogether but the second so far looks fine. The material was sewn with a

MATERIALS
Red outer fabric cut 2 of each
cotton lining cut 2 of each
canvas/calico cut 4 of each
strong linen thread
Matching thread to outer shell
Synthetic whale bone (6mm cut lengthways to 3mm)
A small pair of pincers to trim and strong scissors to cut in half.
A great deal of time and patience.

I am sure that some of the measuring and other tools for quilted skirts and jumps were used later for corsets. The quilting quarter ruler I have seen for measuring and the quilting clips which are used to hold the fabric secure in a roll would have made it easier to work with(suppled by "Sewing Online".)Also it is common for a quilted square to be bound with bias tape and this feature is shown in the corset I am using as reference. So I conclude that the same skills/tools used for quilting skirts/jackets were later utilised when making corsets.

I managed to make a good paper pattern (see upsizing)and marked out the lines for the boning which is 3mm wide so I needed to split a 6mm one in half though I think the similar version in the KCM may have been even narrower. I then needed to mark the channels. These graduated towards the sides so not all are vertical. I made them 1mm wider to allow room to get them inside.

The finished corset seen open

The stays are sewn in a running stitch and tacked vertically about every inch to stop it from moving when inseerting the bones.



I managed to find a really good blue marker which rubs off but gives a really clear line for the channels. The boning I used was plastic imitation whalebone (Vena Cava.) I got 6mm then split it to 3mm as it was too rigid and too thick to go down
the finger-like bits at the bottom. I drew the channels 5mm apart but it couldnt be drawn or followed exactly. I then did a small running stitch in the thick thread. After a few I found I didnt need to pin, I needed to sew the bottom of the tunnels as I went along as they kept falling out. I did each piece individually and intend to sew them overlapping at the sides later. At the moment I am am on piece five so have 2 backs and one side to go - what a marathon.